Which Kitchen Underfloor Heating?

Electric Underfloor Heating MatWhen it comes to your kitchen floor there is really only one option to go for and that is to install tiles. As an area which receives a lot of footfall, spillages and use, it is essential to have flooring which is hardwearing, easy to clean and stylish.

The variety and type of tiles which you can choose are now far reaching with options for ceramic, natural stone and man-made materials. Not only that but you will need to consider whether you want to invest in underfloor heating. Certainly from my own experience I now wish I had installed heating under my tiles, simply to offer a little warmth to the tiles underfoot. Kitchens tend to be warm places regardless of the heating supplied to the room and although I have a radiator, it is rarely switched on.

What I do miss is a little warmth under my feet and so I have considered pulling up my tiles to add in the underfloor heating. Depending on your surface area will also depend on whether wet or dry underfloor heating is appropriate. The latter is much easier to install but the former much more cost effective but with additional time needed for its installation.

Any ceramic tile will conduct heat from underfloor heating very well. From a cost perspective, if you are using the heating to actually provide warmth to the room, then it is best to opt for wet underfloor heating as it is more economical. However if you simply want a little heat underfoot then electric underfloor heating will definitely suffice.

Garden Makeovers – Pitfalls to watch out for!

Garden View From Above Having had my garden completely revamped last year, I discovered that, despite my own confidence about project management and implementation, there were a few key lessons I learned along the way.

First of all though, I do commend my landscape gardener for a fabulous job and I am very happy with the end result. I was very clear about the design, the garden was to be split into two levels; the lower area for the patio and the upper terrace for a circular area of grass with a tiled border. Fencing was one of the major factors as the upper area would need to be supported by gravel boards to ensure the earth was fully supported. The steps to and from each area were to be wooden sleepers with LED lights to highlight the steps.

I had several meetings with the gardener in the months prior to him starting the job, however the time between meetings and the job starting was about a couple of months. By the time the job was started my gardener was still asking me what products I wanted. Because there was a lot of groundwork to do it was a while before products were going to be needed. The job started at a very fast pace with much of the ground work completed within 5-7 days. I was incredibly impressed with this and this set an expectation for the job to be completed at least within 3 weeks.

It was then that delays began to happen. Having chosen the fencing, patio slabs, front and back doors and relayed my decisions to the gardener it was only once the job had started that he ordered the items. The fencing supplier was local and able to deliver very quickly, which was essential for creating the two height levels of the garden. However then it seemed that everything else halted. The composite door was the very last thing to be installed and from the start of the work it was 2 and half months later. The patio slabs were out of stock and we had to wait 2/3 weeks for those to be delivered. The stable back door was ordered incorrectly and had to be reordered.

Back GardenAs you can imagine from the first week of the job progress being so impressive, to continually be told about ordering delays and errors became very frustrating. However the blame can not entirely lie with my gardener. There were two things which I should have been much clearer about right from the beginning.

Firstly setting out exactly what I wanted whether through printing out products or listing my requirements out. Although my gardener took notes, when it came to the point of ordering, things had obviously been forgotten. I also have to admit to making a couple of changes when the work was going on but which did not impact time frames or work flow. Had I been much more specific and provided my gardener with paperwork about the products I wanted, we may not have had some of the ordering issues which occurred.

My final point is about the ordering of products. Having had our planning meetings back in February and all the necessary measurements taken for my patio and doors, they were clearly not ordered until the job began mid-May. Ordering time frames were not considered by my gardener or the fact that stock might be low. In retrospect I should have chased and checked with him that the items had been ordered in plenty of time.

So my very long winded moral of the tale today is twofold:

  • Ensure you know exactly what you want and provide pictures and specific details to your contractor. Keep copies to return and reference back to during the work.
  • Where necessary push to ensure items are ordered in plenty of time (pay up front for these if required), this then avoids project delays which can be very frustrating and unnecessary for both parties.

These two points, in my view, are critical to a happy and successful relationship with your contractor for any project you might have around the home.

All Fired Up for a Room Revamp

It started off with a decision to replace the windows in the lounge and dining room. This was the final stage of a project to replace all the windows of our 1970s bungalow with more energy efficient ones. Having been happy with the work done previously on other rooms, we called back the same window company for a quote.

The technician explained that in order to remove the existing windows, the teak cladding on the lounge chimney breast would need to be taken off. Immediately, the scale of the redecorating job ahead of us was ramped up. We had never been keen on this dated cladding, or on the fireplace that we inherited when we bought the home, so it was time to bite the bullet and throw the lot out. Rather than replace the fireplace with something more attractive, we decided to block up the chimney, cutting a potential draught source and aiding the never-ending battle against rising heating bills.

But like many people, we still wanted a fire as a focal point. So began the search for a hang-on-the-wall electric version. My husband saw a reasonably-priced one at a local fireplace centre and I duly went along to look – only to dismiss it straight away as far too small for our large living room. On a tour round the rest of the shop, we found one that we both liked and was much better proportioned – but of course it was three times as much as the one we first viewed!

New FireplaceWe went away to spend hours trawling the internet and visiting DIY stores to look at more fires, but eventually came back to the swish but pricey model we had already seen. We had been won over by the slim dimensions and the attractive Corian® surround, which we knew would be hard-wearing. But there were still choices to be made – brick or reed background? Brick. Log effect or pebbles? Logs. (Why have pebbles suddenly become trendy – who burns pebbles?) Then the colours or stone look options. Does anyone really need a mind-boggling choice of 100 colours?

Having placed our order, we needed to make sure we had exact measurements and knowledge of the position of the connections so that the cable trunking could be precisely placed before the now-naked chimney breast was re-plastered.

Fast forward a few weeks and the job is finished. A cosy living area with new windows, wallpaper, wall lights, carpet (needed after removing the hearth) and cushions. The fire flickers, emphasising the warm glow we feel.

Should I Skim or Plasterboard over Artex?

Many homes which have been built over the last 20 years have ceilings which have been covered with Artex. I can understand that a new build needs to settle and cracks can appear which makes Artex a fantastic solution for minimising how visible they are. However the pattern which covers your ceilings can range from small linear dots right up to big meringue style peaks and swirls. In my view, neither of these are really very acceptable, so what are the alternatives? In the main, there are two:

1)    Scrape where necessary and plasterboard over the ceiling then skim with plaster

2)    Scrape and remove as much Artex as possible and then re-plaster the ceiling directly

As you might appreciate both of these jobs are somewhat disruptive and messy and really it can depend on the level and depth of the Artex which can determine which solution is recommended. The clear negative with regard to option one is that a lot of work may need to be done in order to create a flat enough surface on which to attach the plasterboard in order to ensure a smooth finish when skimming.  Also the overall height of the ceiling will be reduced by up to 1-2cm by the time the job is complete. If you live in a small cottage this may be a significant consideration. For most properties the loss of this height is negligible.

With regard to option 2, the scraping and removal phase may take quite a long time to complete and when plastering it is absolutely critical to ensure that it is both smooth and level across the ceiling space; a much harder task without the benefit of plasterboard I’m sure.

I think my advice, in general, would be to head for option 1 in terms of potential timeframes and overall disruption to your home.